Category Archives: Sightseeing

Winter shores

We have continued to be blessed by the most amazing mild, sunny weather. The sunlight seems much more intense than in the UK – so often as I look at the Lake I think of the phrase ‘shining waters’. Perhaps this is less surprising when you realise that London is actually a lot further north at latitude 51N than Toronto at latitude 43N – the sun really is stronger.

Whenever we go walking on the shore, as we did on Sunday, I still pinch myself! It is so beautiful, so incredibly peaceful and restorative, yet here we are living in a major city.

And the expanse of sand at Woodbine Beach as it curves into Ashridge Bay is to die for . . .

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Highlights (week beginning 2 November 2009)

It’s been such a busy time doing that I don’t get to write things up! So here is a brief summary of the ‘firsts’ and highlights from the last week.

  • Buying a house (OK, I did report on this one)
  • Venturing downtown for the first time since we’ve been here to see Where the Wild Things Are at the Imax (as Imax is a Canadian technology, this seemed appropriate) and drifting out of the cinema into a bookshop where we browsed until well after 9.30 pm.
  • Quigley'sFriday night at our local (Quigley’s), doing our usual half-time swop between  risotto studded with PEI (Prince Edward Island) Mussels and bursting with calamari, scallops and prawns, tomato and basil and a spicy chicken, bacon and chipotle pasta, washed down with Creemore (a fine drop of beer from a small town we visited in July) and accompanied by live rock, much of which took me back to my early 20s.
  • Going to the mall (another first) and investing in a really good mattress – the Brick (a major furnishing store) had a one day 50% sale on mattresses.
  • Scarborough Bluffs – where sculpted cliffs rise steep and tall and, on an unseasonable November day, I basked on a rock in the sun, savouring the shore’s soothing susurrus and the dancing diamond path across the water to a sliver of silver tranquility on the horizon.

  • Saturday night supper – eating Catfish, which we thoroughly enjoyed. We have promised ourselves that we will try at least one new food each week when we go shopping!
  • Our first trip to ROM (the Royal Ontario Museum) and a magical exhibition of unusual gems, Light & Stone: Gems from the Collection of Michael Scott (one of the founders of Apple). This included some stones neither of us had heard of in raw form and as jewellery or sculpture – fabulous! We also took one of the museum tours to get an overview and went to photographic exhibitions of Vanity Fair portraits and key Canadians photographed by Michael Dickinson. Thanks to Paul’s brother Robin and his wife Justine who gave us a year’s membership, this should be the first of many visits – we have yet to take in the current major exhibition of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
  • Wandering back to the subway through upmarket Yorkville – Prada, Louis Vuitton, Max Mara ( you get the picture) – to be explored at our leisure, particularly Holt Renfrew, an upmarket department store.

A perfect Sunday in late fall . . .

We picked up breakfast-to-go at the Remarkable Bean (our favourite coffee shop on Queen St)  – great coffee, a roasted pepper and cream cheese muffin and a pear, walnut and blue cheese muffin.

An hour and a half or so of driving round Lake Ontario and we took off from the highway into the vineyards, fields and woodlands of the Niagara peninsular, soaking up the last of the fall glory before winter strips the trees.

A quick lunch and wander in Niagara on the Lake, the first capital of the province and a lovely, small historic town, whetted our appetites for future visits, perhaps taking in the Shaw festival (as in George Bernard Shaw).

Then on down the Niagara Parkway, along the banks of the Niagara river, to catch our first glimpse of the falls before heading back.

Driving towards downtown Toronto from whatever direction, the CN Tower already gives me a sense of ‘homecoming’ to our adopted city, especially when it is surrounded by gilded skyscrapers giving back the day.

Oh, and then we bought a house . . .

Accommodating the Soul B&B, Beach, Toronto

With so much to do and see, there has not been time to write about either of the excellent B&B’s we stayed in!

Accommodating the Soul B&BArriving at Accommodating the Soul felt like coming home! We had dragged our luggage about 2.5K from the subway station (we could have got a bus, but felt like walking and were keen to take our first opportunity to explore!) on Toronto’s hottest day of the year.  It was bliss just to sit on the porch as we waited for our hosts, Steven and Paul to arrive, soaking up the extraordinary sense of peace of this leafy city neighbourhood.

We could not have asked for a better home from home and Steven treated us to an excellent breakfast each morning; fresh fruit salad, perhaps followed by frittata bursting with fresh flavours or delicate pear pancakes and maple syrup, not to mention the handmade Italian sausages – and plenty of coffee!

Accommodating the Soul B&BWe stayed in the Blue Room, not huge but more than adequate to our needs.  This room shares a bathroom with the Yellow Room (there is also one ensuite room). The house was built in 1911 and has been sympathetically modernised and furnished, with a happy mix of old and new, including Steven’s lovely stained glass work. Situated on Waverly Road, just yards from Queen Street (rich in restaurants, cafes and quirky shops), the location provided the perfect blend of access to downtown and relaxing retreat near the beach.

Above all, both Steven and Paul were superb hosts, mines of information and wonderfully supportive of our fact finding. Paul is a Realtor (similar to but much more than an Estate Agent) and put together a brilliant house-buyers’ information pack for us, as well as taking us to see a number of properties that illustrated possible neighbourhoods and options.

One reason we regularly choose to stay in B&Bs is that, so often, we come away feeling that we have made new friends; this was certainly on of those occasions.

Avalon Clearview B&B

Although it looks out over Devil’s Glen, Avalon Clearview is not presumptuous in its allusion to the isle of the blessed. This is a magical place in an enchanted setting!

Arriving at the back of the house, there is not much to see and it is easy to overshoot. But looking out across the Niagara Escarpment, a World Biosphere Reserve, my spirit soared.  Later, I wandered the grounds and woods beyond with a child’s delight, utterly present.

Avalon Clearview, Georgian Bay Avalon Clearview, Georgian Bay Avalon Clearview, Georgian Bay - In the woods Avalon Clearview, Georgian Bay

It isn’t hard to see how this glorious environment nourishes Steve’s work – once again, our host is a stained glass artist! Huge panelled internal doors re-dress the summer trees through which we stroll in their autumn raiment. Vibrant colours and natural forms spill throughout this lovely and very comfortable home.

Avalon Clearview, Georgian BayKnowing we would arrive late afternoon, we had taken up the option of a home-cooked dinner. Elaine is an enthusiastic and excellent cook and were honoured to share our meal with both our hosts – once again, we immediately felt as if we were visiting friends and took great pleasure in their company. Breakfasts lived up to our by now high expectations, with particularly amazing fruit starters including Watermelon Benedict, (a base of home-made granola, watermelon, kiwi fruit & berries topped off with lemon yoghurt).

(You can see more photos in our Sightseeing Gallery!)