Tyendinaga Pow Wow was our second experience of such a gathering. It was very different in nature from our 2013 day at Wikwemikong. I hadn’t fully realized until now, though perhaps I should have, that most Pow Wows are community gatherings. Wikwemikong is much more a competition Pow Wow, with contests for different styles of dancing and age groups.

In Tyendinaga, we felt as if we had been invited into a delightful community party in a sunlit clearing amongst the trees. This warm circle held us all. It spanned generations, honouring the ancestors (whose presence was invited in the opening words), the traditions and Creator. It was much more laid back than the Wikwemikong Pow Wow, with a different focus and energy.

Pow Wow Dancing

On the flip side, we did not see the same variety or level of dancing. I recognized at least some of the regalia worn by different kinds of dancers – Jingle Dress, Fancy Shawl and more. But we didn’t see these different dances performed to the same extent. Much more of the day was spent on ‘Intertribal dance’, the time when everyone is welcome to join in. Yes, I was persuaded to take part at least once. But I found that, without practice, my feet wouldn’t continue to do what I wanted them to at the same time as I was talking! I will be incorporating basic Pow Wow dance steps into my exercise routines going forward.

Pow Wow Trading

Another aspect of a Pow Wow is ‘trading’. In modern times this takes the form of vendor booths. There were trinkets, there was work of great artistry – I particularly love Trevor O. Brant’s carvings – and everything in between. There were tee shirts and ribbon skirts, blankets, moccasins and the makings for many Indigenous crafts (beads, skins, fur). And no party would be complete without food and drink. We particularly enjoyed Pickerel (fish) nuggets and a Bison burger in Frybread, even if Paul did wait in line for well over an hour. And I was able to fill my water bottle with nettle and mint tea for $2. What you will not find at a Pow Wow is alcohol or drugs (and bear in mind Cannabis is legal in Canada); both are strictly prohibited.

Cultural change

It is interesting to notice how Canadian cultural awareness has changed since 2013.

At the end of my Wikwemikong Pow Wow post I reflected as follows:

Sadness mixed with hope – I guess, in truth, that is about the best I could have expected at this moment in time. It seems to me that we are reaching a tipping point in Canadian history. There is a deep need for modern Canada to acknowledge and own the shame of the near eradication of indigenous culture, the human impact of this and the immense loss it represents. The stories must be told and heard. But beyond the speaking and the listening, this is a time to begin to build new relationships, based on respect, that value the differences in cultural tradition and wisdom. It is time for Canada to begin the shift to a coherent, adult identity that marks its coming of age.

Two years later, the publication of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s Report and Calls to Action in 2015 did seem to mark the start of a genuine shift. There is now much more emphasis in schools and generally on Indigenous history and cultural awareness.

In 2017, Canada 150 felt oddly uncomfortable in its celebration of 150 years since Confederation. Perhaps as a result, it seemed as if suddenly there were more Indigenous focussed initiatives. It also seemed to mark the beginnings of a more thoughtful relationship to past and present.

Last year (2023) in Toronto on Canada Day, the celebration we took in in St. James’ Park featured Indigenous storytelling and dance. A local Provincial MP gave an eloquent acknowledgement not just of the treatment of Indigenous peoples but also of the impact of Japanese internment and the Chinese head tax. Yes, we can still celebrate the many wonderful things about Canada. But the Truth part of Truth and Reconciliation requires of us that we bear witness to and acknowledge past wrongs.

I have many more conversations now about Indigenous issues with friends – and strangers. There is much more interest in learning about Canada’s Indigenous heritage. People are discovering Indigenous writers and artists. And Indigenous perspectives are becoming more visible through film and television. There are, though, deniers and those whose attitude to the impact of what many refer to as cultural genocide is still ‘get over it!’

Personal perceptions and understanding

I have worked consistently to increase my own knowledge and awareness since we emigrated. And during this last year I have made Indigenous learning and linking something of a priority.

I have been told that the best and most important way to learn about Indigenous lives and ways of being is by connecting and talking with people. Books can only take you so far. Prior to settler contact, this was a primarily oral culture. And the very nature of the languages tends to be strikingly different from English. It has been a real pleasure to meet some wonderful people with Indigenous heritage. I have been honoured by their willingness to share their knowledge. It was also very illuminating to have access to some fascinating live virtual presentations during the course I followed, 4 Seasons of Indigenous Learning.

At the Tyendinaga Pow Wow I couldn’t help but be drawn to the beautiful bead work on the regalia of the man sitting in front of me. Larry O’Connor is a former politician who has only really connected to his Métis roots in the last decade or so. He took up beading during Covid and continues to develop his skill. Larry is also the host of Tales from the Big Canoe, an Indigenous focussed radio show on a community radio station. He was a delight to talk to! It was he who persuaded me to join the dancing. He graciously gave me permission to photograph him.

Pow Wow learning

Which brings me to a couple of key shifts in my awareness in relation to Pow Wow etiquette.

In 2013, I referred to Pow Wow ‘costumes’. I didn’t know any better at the time. But a costume is something you wear when you dress up and pretend to be something else. Regalia represents not only the dancer’s personality but also their history, family and culture.

I was aware at that first Pow Wow that there were times when I shouldn’t take photos. But otherwise I had a very muddy sense of what was acceptable. It was easy to understand that ceremonies and prayers were out of bounds. But it still feels complicated to know how and when to ask individual dancers for permission to take photographs. For this reason I have tried to include more general group images in this post, but I am still not sure whether I have strayed outside the boundaries.

Ribbon Skirts

One of the things that struck me at Tyendinaga was the number of women wearing ribbon skirts. I don’t remember seeing this at Wikwemikong. In fact, I wasn’t really aware of ribbon skirts until about a year ago at an Indigenous arts event.

I talked to a maker and she gave me the impression that their resurgence didn’t really start till around 2015.Both she and another attendee told me that ribbon skirts are not considered regalia and can therefore be worn by non-indigenous Pow Wow visitors. The maker also told me that they should be ankle length for dancing, though this does not seem to be universally observed.

Ribbon skirt customs belong to many different Nations. They originally combined the varied traditions of Buckskin dresses, ceremonial skirts and European designs and materials. It sems as if they are currently worn with some sense of personal reclamation of identity. As such, they are beautiful and very varied. I look forward to learning more and developing a deeper understanding.

An ongoing journey

At the start of each of the live sessions that were part of my course we were reminded that we are all at different stages in our learning journey. Over the last year I have often written or done something in a certain way. Then, days or weeks later, my awareness of subtler nuances of ceremony or day to day etiquette shifts and I question whether what I did was correct. I have talked with my Indigenous friends about some of these issues. Their guidance is to listen and to approach all interaction with openness and humility. Questions are generally welcomed.

My journey continues . . .