Category Archives: Beyond Our Borders

Our meal at Taberna Clandestina, Cascais

Authentic food

For us, one of the joys or travel is tapping into authentic food experiences.

Something that struck me on our recent trip to Portugal was the shift in my perception of authentic food.

The last time I was in Portugal was over 25 years ago. Back then, I looked almost exclusively for traditional Portuguese food, though even then the restaurant I remember most vividly was fusing those traditions and the local ingredients with a California vibe.

Now it would seem to me somewhat patronizing automatically to choose only traditional food. Our culture, particularly city culture, has become so much more complex in that intervening quarter century. How, then, in an internationalist age, do we define authentic food experiences when we travel?

I think that what I look for is the use of good local ingredients and a dash of inspiration. But I no longer focused solely on ‘Portuguese’ food, which opened the door to some delightful discoveries. On this trip this ranged from the traditional village fish restaurant, through more upmarket but still ‘family’ home-cooked styles, to fusion (sushi) and a high gastronomy tasting menu. Like many things, it is possible to savour and delight in both simplicity and sophistication in food. Part of the pleasure lies in that variety.

Monks, nuns, eggs and sugar

Traditionally, as long ago as before the C18th, monks and nuns used egg-white to clean and starch their habits.  They used the leftover yolks to make sweets so as not to waste them, and in order to raise money for their religious communities. Such were the beginnings of two quintessentially Portuguese delicacies, Pastel de Nata and Ovos Moles – truly authentic food!

We were excited to find that one of the most lauded Pastel de Nata bakeries, Castro – Atelier de Pastéis de Nata, happened to be just opposite our Porto apartment. Then, during his scavenger hunt, Paul visited Manteigaria, their main competition for the title of best Pastel de Nata in Porto. Of course he brought a box back with him. The tarts from both were melt-in-the-mouth delicious, with a slight brûlée crispness to the top. I loved that the Manteigaria box included sachets of cinnamon to sprinkle on just before serving.

[As usual, if you click into a gallery you can see the photos at full size and with descriptive titles]

Ovos Moles are a specialty of Aveiro. There is even a monument to them in one of the parks.

Monument to Ovos Moles, Aveiro

Although I have heard the classic Ovos Moles described as ‘very eggy’, I actually quite liked them. But there are also some wonderful variations on the theme. One of the benefits of using egg yolks in this way is that it can preserve them for fifteen days or so without refrigeration.

Long before we arrived in Portugal I had scheduled a stop at Confeitaria Peixinho, which opened in 1856 and specializes in Ovos Moles. It is a magical place redolent of a bygone age. Our beautiful selection box served as supper and more.

Delectable discoveries

On a day when Paul was fully committed elsewhere in Porto, I treated myself at lunchtime to a new and delightful food discovery; pintxos or pinchu, small snacks originating in the Basque region of Spain.

Backtracking slightly, I had walked down to the Ribeira waterfront with the intention of eating on the square. I even sat down at one of the pavement restaurants. But the menu confirmed that this really was not a place for authentic food. I wanted better and headed back up the side-streets towards our apartment.

We had previously noticed what at first glance we thought was a café-bakery. As I walked past, Sagardi once again caught my eye. I’m so glad I decided to explore. Their pintxos brought together fabulous combinations of texture and flavours. My special favourite was a tart filled with smoked cream cheese and apple that wasn’t quite sure if it was sweet or savoury, though everything I tried was delicious. I made a return visit a few days later – it was lovely to be able to introduce Paul and some of his colleagues to something different before we headed to the WordCamp After Party. We discovered that, in the evening, there are also delectable hot snacks straight from the oven. My only regret is that we didn’t have time to try their main restaurant.

Gelados d Portugal

To round off my lunch-time treat, I followed up with Portuguese ice-cream from the supermarket next door to Sagardi; chestnut with port and Portuguese custard tart were my flavour choices. I did take my ice-cream back down to the Cais da Ribeira, the waterfront, to soak up the atmosphere. Perfect.

Authentically fishy

Not unexpectedly, fish featured strongly in so many of our restaurant choices.

At Adega Sao Nicolau, an excellent family run restaurant in Porto specializing in classic, home-style cooking, I chose bacalhau (salt cod). This is quintessentially Portuguese, definitely authentic food.

Then there were a couple of village fish restaurants. Onda Sol in Torreira was a ‘local’ restaurant of a kind that one finds all around the Mediterranean. Nothing beats the delicious simplicity fresh Sea Bass with salad and chips. The food at Restaurante Portelas just outside Sao Jacinto was a little more sophisticated, with a stunning array of home-made desserts on offer and particularly friendly service.

After a few days of traditional fare, we stayed with local fish during our excursion to Aveiro but in the form of delectable fusion sushi at Subenshi Sushi. We ate surrounded by colourful swimming fish and sculptural ceilings, a really stylish and fun environment, and thoroughly enjoyed our departure from the traditional.

Taberna Clandestina in Cascais ticked all the boxes for me. It epitomised my earlier definition of what I look for in authentic food as being ‘the use of good local ingredients and a dash of inspiration’. In addition, the lively, street atmosphere and great service made this a highlight. We put together a meal of shared smaller plates; truffle ravioli, swordfish carpaccio, mixed fried seafood and a fabulous salad. Everything had that wonderful freshness and ‘zing’ that makes food memorable.

Memories Experience – ‘The inspiration that comes from the sea’

In choosing to eat at the Michelin starred restaurant at Fortaleza do Guincho, we understood that this would be about story and spectacle as much as about gastronomy. This kind of meal is what in the 70s was termed ‘a happening’, a kind of sensory performance art. Visually stunning, creative, bringing out flavours, textures and temperatures in ways that go beyond the experience of every-day ‘eating’, this was a meal as memorable as I could have hoped.

When the restaurant first gained its Michelin star in 2001 under Chef Antoine Westermann, it offered French fine dining. In 2015 the concept drastically changed with the arrival of famous Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha Vieira. Then, in 2018, after 3 years of dedication and lots of creativity as Miguel Vieira’s Sous-Chef,  Gil Fernandes took the helm. His focus is a menu inspired by the Atlantic and the surroundings of the Fort. It is based on Portuguese products and traditions, especially fish and seafood. That coveted star has been retained throughout this evolution.

“The experience at the table of Fortaleza do Guincho continues to be the one of discovery around the Portuguese culture, traditions and history”

I’m not sure I can fully do justice to the ‘performance’. I can’t remember all the nuances or the subtleties of the storytelling, though our waiter was an excellent guide. But it went something like this.

Amuse Bouche
Guincho Sports: Cuttlefish Surfer – Childhood: Drip Irrigation System – Pandemic: Vaccine

Cuttlefish surfer (as we looked out at the kite surfers) – cuttlefish ink in tempura was spectacular. Irrigation; and vaccine – the first time I have had a waiter advance on me brandishing a syringe with a scary looking needle! I think I was too startled by the sight of this to think about capturing a photo. It had real drama and humour.

Oyster
Night Scents: Oyster Pastel, Ginger, Curry, Curry Plant

The edible crisp shell was particularly delightful.

Clam
Sand Comb: Sea Broth, Wild Clam Fricassee, Honey, Codium

Was this a reference to beach-combing? I’m not sure. The clam broth was wonderful.

Flannel
Interval

Even the flannel to wipe our hands after these initial Amuse Bouche was dramatic, swelling in response to water added at table.

Octopus
Olfactory: Octopus Salad, Fermented Sweet Potato, Quinoa

Octopus salad with fermented sweet potato. I went without the crisped quinoa as quinoa and I don’t get along! I wish I could recall what the sauces were. Throughout the meal, though, there was a wonderful range of flavours from subtle to intense.

Prawn
Algarve: Scarlet Prawn from the Algarve, Water Cress, Citrus

Scarlet prawn from the Algarve, with radish, watercress, citrus – intensely in that golden line and more delicately in the salad below the jellied surface.

Eel
River: Aveiro’s Eel, Broad Beans, Wild Fennel

Aveiro eel, with a smoky sauce, young broad beans and fennel. Very beautiful and delicious. I love that visual sense of the river. I’m never sure whether I like eel, but when I eat it I often do.

Between
“3 Parte”: Boiled Bones, Homemade “Alheira”, Bean

‘Boiled bones’ and beans; intense ‘between courses’ flavours rooted in family food.

Corn bread, seaweed bread and walnut and fig bread with a strong goat cheese, a curry butter and lardon and red pepper butter, served as pebbles.

Sea Bass
“Domingueiras”: Line Caught Sea Bass, Cabbage, “Cozido a Portuguesa” Broth

Sunday lunch – sea bass, various forms of cabbage, turnip and a pork broth.

Leftovers
Leftovers!

Seabass, in a much more flavour intense broth, pasta. This was almost better than the Sunday lunch!

Sorbet
Ice Melting

Climate change. The ice round the sorbet and apple was dramatically melted with warm raspberry, vinegar and elderflower.

Pork
1692: Iberian Prey, Carrots, Pear, Pork Cheese

Iberian prey – pork (or maybe wild boar) tenderloin, carrot, pears poached in red wine. Followed up with a strong cheese from the Azores that is matured for three years (stunning), over a really intense pork stew.

Strawberries, very intense sesame cookies (in the background and second photo), more a shortbread, with crème anglaise and very intense rounds of gelled strawberry and sesame ice cream.

Pineapple
D.O.P: “Queijada de Evora”, Tras-os-Montes Biologic Olive Oil, Pineapple from the Azores

Pineapple from the Azores – the dried pineapple formed a delicious ‘cracker’ with drops of rich pineapple flavour. The tart had a wonderful crispy filling, the ice cream was olive oil, drizzled with basil and the little cubes were an olive oil jelly.

Our Surroundings: Mignardises

And to finish . . . Particularly unforgettable were the squares of white chocolate with red prawn powder. Very strange, but I could definitely see that they would grow on me with repeat exposure!

I didn’t think I could handle the full wine pairing but asked the sommelier to pick two glasses of wine for me. Both were exceptional. This was not a surprise given that the Fortaleza has the reputation of having one of the best wine cellars in Portugal.

What a meal! What an experience! Although this is about as far from every-day food as one could get, for me this still qualifies as authentic food in its attention to surroundings, to personal story expressed through fabulous local ingredients in inspired ways.


How do you define authentic food in the context of travel? Please feel free to comment!

Torreira Beach

Portugal reflections – life is not either/or

During our two weeks in Portugal as we emerged from Covid seclusion, so many times and in so many ways my perceptions were run through by the thought ‘it’s not either/or’. Writing about my experience of WordCamp EU 2022 for our business blog, I ended on just this note:

Yes, remaining a recluse certainly has its attractions. But WCEU 2022 , Porto, was a welcome reminder of the joy and energy that can be generated when like-minded individuals are able to spend time together. Perhaps Covid may have given us an opportunity to understand that, in the best of times, both have value. It doesn’t have to be either/or.

City – sociable AND solitary (not either/or)

Haven in the heart of the city

Porto is a vibrant, bustling city, currently on the travel hot list so teeming with tourists. It is so very different to life on the lake. Our Airbnb, Mouzinho 134, was right at the heart of the city on Rua Mouzinho da Silveira, yet it provided a surprisingly peaceful and very comfortable haven.

[For all photo galleries, click onto the first photo to scroll through the photos at full size and with titles – in the preview they are often cropped.]

An explorer’s bubble

I love retreating into a quiet bubble within the crowds to photograph a city. So this was how I spent most of my ‘alone time’ while Paul was occupied with pre-conference activities. On Wednesday I wandered north of our apartment, taking in many of the best-known sights, the beautiful tiles and vistas, alongside quirky back streets, and personal discoveries.

On the river

Just as I reached ‘home’, Paul ‘phoned – from just across the street. Synchronicity or what! I ended up meeting his XWP crowd for lunch. As they had a couple of spaces, I was invited to join their boat trip down the Douro. It was a genuine pleasure to get to know some of the people Paul works with. It was an opportunity to interact in a way that has not been the norm for too long now.

Party in a Palace

Arriving back at around 6pm, a quick change and drive through the suburbs saw us at Palácio do Freixo. Classified in 1910 as a National Monument and a unique example of Baroque architecture, this was the venue for the first of the ‘parties’, hosted by Codeable.

Though the appetizers were delicious and the band excellent (if a bit loud) we gravitated to the courtyard, not wholly comfortable with being indoors with so many people unmasked. Dinner was at least rather more spaced out.

‘Get lost’!

One of the best pieces of advice I had heard about Porto was to ‘get lost’ in the Ribeira. So the next day I mostly focused on the wonderful back streets (and steep climbs) of the oldest parts of the city. This included two mediaeval buildings likely dating from the C13th and C14th. The contrast between the throngs on the waterfront and the solitude of these atmospheric, narrow, cobbled alleys was astonishing.

Another palace and a cathedral

I finished my day at the Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace. It reminded me that austerity rather than opulence is what soothes my soul. It was the stone passages of the Palace and the Cathedral cloisters that resonated for me.

Conference time

The following two days were all about the conference. No more time for sightseeing! That said, the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal that surround the Super Bock Arena are delightful, with beautiful views of the city.

We did manage to make Friday night, before Paul’s talk first thing on Saturday, a quiet meal just for the two of us in a restaurant noted for its homestyle Portuguese specialties, Adega Sao Nicolau.

The crowds, the socializing, just being in a city felt a bit bizarre after the seclusions of Covid. It was fun but a little scary and also somewhat overwhelming at times. I’m not used to that many people! It’s interesting to observe the way I oscillated between solitary and sociable, tapping into both my introvert and extrovert tendencies and taking pleasure in both (not either/or!).

See our Porto Google Album for even more photos!

The Aveiro Lagoon – bustling city and empty shores (not either/or!)

Sixties classic on a sandbar . . .

I consciously chose the Pousada da Ria as somewhere we could catch our breath after what I knew would be a very hectic time in Porto. It met the need perfectly. Located on a sandbar peninsular a short ferry ride from Aveiro, it is just slightly off the beaten track. Something of a sixties classic, the building sits on pillars above the gentle lapping of the Aveiro Lagoon. In contrast, a short distance away the Atlantic throws all its force at the sandbar’s western shores.

Beaches that go on for ever . . .

The beaches here are definitely my kind of beaches. There were no concerns about social distancing. Just miles and miles of golden sand and just the odd figure on the horizon.

At the beginning of June when we were there, much work was going into redistributing the sand that had formed drifts during winter storms. It was very strange to see beach bars still partially buried and to watch the dumper trucks changing the profile of the beach in preparation for summer visitors.

We got the impression that this is an area in which Portuguese city dwellers have their holiday homes rather than one which focuses on attracting foreign visitors. I’m guessing that July and August would be much busier.

Sao Jacinto’s dunes

A glorious 8km hike through the dunes at the Sao Jacinto Dunes Nature Reserve offered more insights. It was fascinating to discover that the peninsula on which we were staying did not exist 600 years ago. It is a sandbar created by those pounding Atlantic waves and winter storms that is part of an ongoing process of transformation. Here, in the reserve, this process is supported and protected by human intervention. It was interesting to think back to the ‘reshaping’ of the beaches and realise that this is more about humans holding back nature to preserve something they value, in this case long sandy beaches attractive to tourists!

There was a diversity of habitats in the Reserve, with real variety of plants. Again, it was so interesting to see how the trees and other plant life gradually transform dune sand into something more like ‘soil’ and how this then supports new and different life.

Stalking lizards is a habit from my earliest Mediterranean holidays. I didn’t notice, though, till I went through my photos that the one pictured is missing part of its tail!

Our hike was was so solitary that, when we did encounter one other couple, Paul quipped to me, ‘Did you give them permission to come on our walk?’

Art Nouveau and canals – Aveiro

A short ferry ride across the mouth of the lagoon made for a pleasant trip into Aveiro itself. A small but growing city, Aveiro is famous for its canals navigated by colorful boats (barcos moliceiros), traditionally used to harvest seaweed. I had read that many of these barges had somewhat risqué artwork on their prows. I get the feeling, though, that contemporary sensibilities are seeing this tradition fade.

Aveiro is also noted for its many Art Nouveau frontages. We found interesting juxtapositions of old and new, especially in tiles. It was delightful both to see the city from the canals and just to wander, only somewhat guided by a map of the Art Nouveau buildings.

From fort perched above pounding Atlantic waves to Royal summer playground

Fortaleza do Guincho

The Fortaleza

Our three nights at the Fortaleza do Guincho were a gift to ourselves courtesy of all the Avion points we’d managed to collect during Covid. As well as the romance of staying at a fort looking out over one of the best beaches in Portugal, there was the promise of a meal at the Michelin starred restaurant – it was wonderful! My post on authentic food details that adventure.

The fort is largely ‘re-constituted’ but very atmospheric. I’ve never before stayed in a room with a loggia. And, of course, its position is stunning, if wind-blown.

Again, during our stay, we rejected either/or and revelled in the contrasting experiences of bustling seaside town and relaxing beach.

Royal Cascais

We chose on our first full day to a meander along the coast road into Cascais, an attractive coastal town that was originally the summer destination for Lisbon’s royalty and nobility. It was very busy, especially as we were there on Portugal Day, but we were glad to see it.

Paul particularly enjoys strolling marinas and ogling the boats these days. He also rather liked The Queen’s Beach (Praia da Rainha), where we almost swam in the sea (I got above waist level, Paul just to his knees).

Although much simpler than the extravaganza of the previous night, we had a particularly delicious meal at the back street Taberna Clandestina.

Guincho Beach

Our final day was the perfect do-nothing-day’s end to our time away. We spent all day on Guincho Beach below the Fortaleza where we were staying. Paul even got to play volleyball, always a favourite beach activity for him.

The water is too cold and the waves too wild for swimming here, but sea and sun worked their relaxing magic.

See our Aveiro and Cascais Google Album for more photos!

Reflection

Reflecting on our time away, I have a heightened awareness of the abundance of experience available when one chooses to interact with the world from a variety of perspectives and in a variety of ways.

I loved my city time, both from within my ‘photographer bubble’ and when soaking up the hustle and bustle, the colour, and the social interactions. I also savoured the solitude of our hike and the empty beaches.

Similarly, I enjoyed embracing both the extrovert and the introvert in myself and the sense that I don’t have to be one or the other. One of the joys of getting older seems to me to be the ability to own and relish the apparently contradictory in ourselves and to be increasingly open to all life’s riches.

It really doesn’t need to be either/or!

Saguaro National Park

Arizona Highways (and byways) – November 2019

I have to admit to feeling some trepidation as we embarked on our journey to Arizona. There are so many reports of Canadians being stopped at the US border; we can’t totally avoid a news-stream dominated by reports of US mass shootings, of political and racial tensions.

One of the best things about travel is that it forces us to move outside our accustomed ‘box’. It was challenging to realize that I am affected by that distorted media stream, to some extent buying into what is just another shading of demonization and prejudice. It was a delight to be reminded how charming and friendly I find all but a tiny minority of Americans and to remember what a beautiful, varied and interesting country the USA is. I still get a warm feeling thinking about the joyful singing of and interaction with the African American who was responsible for our breakfast in Watertown, having got up at 4:30 am to prepare and serve a much better than average hotel buffet.

Our travels were rich in new experiences, from desert landscapes to pit BBQ. What follows is largely drawn from my Facebook entries, effectively journaling our 2019 Arizona trip.

Note: Click into the images to scroll through at full size

November 5 – Travelling

A short drive across the border to Watertown, 45 minute flight to Philadelphia, then on to Phoenix, Arizona, arriving in time to have supper with Paul’s business partner, Jeremy, having quickly dropped off our luggage at our delightful Airbnb studio. We are staying in what was the garage of a house previously owned by Arizona’s first female governor, Rose Mofford.

November 6 – Phoenix

Business in the morning!

Then an awesome afternoon at the Heard Museum (don’t miss this, if you are in Phoenix!), with a leisurely walk ‘home’ through the lovely Encanto-Palmcroft historic district.

November 7 – Phoenix

Desert beauty and pit BBQ (Little Miss, considered among the best in the USA) – both somewhat alien to us northerners. Too much food in the last 48 hours as Jeremy has tried to expose us to some of the delicious quirks of the Phoenix food scene we’d have been unlikely to find on our own.

The Desert Botanical Gardens were a great introduction before we head out into Arizona’s desert lands tomorrow.

In Phoenix we have been fed to within an inch of our lives, culminating last night in what is known as THE Mexican restaurant to take out-of-towners to, Barrio Cafe. The food was amazing and the street art outside really cool, not to mention great company with our ‘business family’.

November 8 – Phoenix to Bisbee

Saguaros and petroglyphs (Saguaro National Park); magical glass, the historic Hotel Congress in Tucson where John Dillinger was captured, desert skies, ending the day in one of America’s quirkiest and best small historic towns, Bisbee.

As a bonus, there is a music festival, so we arrived to live music and cocktails in the back yard of our vintage motel!

November 9 – Bisbee to Globe

Bisbee
Bisbee

From Bisbee to the wild west of the brothers Earp, Doc Holliday, Big Nose Kate and Sadie Marcus (Tombstone) – The Birdcage Theatre offered one of the more authentic glimpses or Tombstone’s heyday.

Then on to the Salado Pueblo at Besh-Ba-Gowah, the treasure trove of the Pickle Barrel Trading Post and a wonderfully quirky classroom bedroom at the Noftsger Hill Inn in mining town, Globe.

It had to be the biggest B&B bedroom ever at the old school house in Globe, now the Noftsger Hill Inn! There was also a neat link to where we stayed in Phoenix, a home that had been owned by Rose Mofford, first female governor of Arizona. Rose was born in Globe, went to school here, and gave many materials from her time in office to the owners.

Noftsger Hill Inn
Noftsger Hill Inn
Noftsger Hill Inn

We thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Pickle Barrel Trading Post, though it was somewhat overwhelming.

Somewhat unexpectedly in this old mining town, we rounded off the day with a delicious Asian fusion meal at Bloom.

November 10 – Globe to Sedona

Montezuma Castle’s Sinagua cliff dwellings gave us a sense of a different type of Pueblo – the area had a lovely feel to me.

Montezuma Castle - Information Board

Not too long after, we got our first glimpse of Sedona‘s awe inspiring red rocks.

Approaching Sedona

Our home for the next few nights, the Red Rock Hiking Studio, is in an older part of town that was settled by the Haight-Ashbury generation, away from the tourist bustle and with a fabulous view from the end of the driveway. The evening’s bonus was the sighting of a Javelina (wild pig) as we drove in after supper.

November 11 – Sedona

Awe, wonder, beauty both natural and artistic; the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a chapel that rises out of the rock (in which Frank Lloyd Wright had a hand) and Mother Earth’s ‘Cathedral Rock’ (from so many different directions, including the gorgeous tranquility of Crescent Moon Ranch and coloured by the day’s changing light). Although the core of Sedona is shot through with bustle and commodification (the galleries were interesting in a way, but overwhelming), the red rocks have a genuinely peaceful quality, even looking out over a glorious Vista over lunch from the Creekside Bistro at the heart of downtown, though even more so sitting surrounded by the glory and soaking it up!

November 12 – Sedona

Gina on the Chimney Rock Trail, Sedona
Gina on the Chimney Rock Trail, Sedona

Feeling reasonably proud of myself; we’ve covered 8.5 km today in two separate hikes – and for probably the first time since back issues cut in in my early thirties, I walked with a backpack! We set out round Chimney Rock from our door at 7:20 am, getting to the Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park at the other end of the trail a little after 9 am – almost a sense of arriving as a pilgrim from the hills, rather lovely.

The Chimney Rock Trail loop is a lovely and relatively easy 3.5km hike, with fabulous views.

After a short break, we set out again a little further round the same range of rock up Soldiers’ Pass via the Devil’s Kitchen Sinkhole to the Seven Sacred Pools (as the monsoon was somewhat lacking this year, we only counted 6 with water!).

Elote Cafe, Chef Jeff Smedstad’s much acclaimed gourmet Mexican restaurant, is something of a foodie ‘must do’ in Sedona and was our choice to cap off our stay. I couldn’t resist buying a copy of the Elote Cookbook, duly signed at our table by the chef, along with a properly bound menu from the night of our visit (included with the book).

November 13 – Sedona to Phoenix via Jerome

I’ll be honest, road tripping had rather caught up with me by this point. As a result, I probably didn’t really appreciate our last stop, the historic copper mining town of Jerome, as much as I might have!

And the journey back to Phoenix was something of a trial – a residual effect of concussion, too long on the road still messes with my head.

November 14/15 – the return to ice and snow

What a difference a day makes… More than 30C between Phoenix and Seeley’s Bay. This is the first time we’ve missed first snowfall and the icing of our bay – even the first snow-clearance of our driveway! Our wetland looks promising for skating this year if we don’t get too much snow.

Arriving home to snow!
Arriving home to snow!

You can view our full Arizona album on Google Photos and follow our journey on Google Maps.

(Due to the intervention of Christmas 2019, family issues and then Covid, my half finished post was put on the back burner and forgotten about! But this was a great adventure and worth recording. So, finally, the post is finished. June 2021)

Philadelphia's Magic Gardens (Isaiah Zagar)

Rewind – Travel in 2016 (2); Philadelphia Freedom

It was almost with trepidation that we took off for US WordCamp in Philadelphia at the end of November. In the wake of the Trump election victory, even before his inauguration and what has followed, US travel already seemed somehow less appealing.

Justice, equality and freedom of the press

The Liberty BellIn the event, I am really glad that we were there in that moment. It was a reminder of so much that is good in America. To stand beside the Liberty Bell was particularly poignant. To read of past success in the struggle against injustice and inequality was a heartening reminder that there always have been and still are many who will fight for the best of what it is to be human.

We had a day together in which to explore. The Liberty Bell was a ‘must see’. Benjamin Franklin’s printing press resonated well with our attendance at WCUS. After all, WordPress specifically seeks to democratize publishing. Franklin’s grandson’s statement on the freedom of the press is as relevant now as it as ever been.

Old Philadelphia

We mooched around the historic area, delighting in Elfreth’s Alley, one of the oldest streets in North America, where some houses date back to the 1720s. Later,  we ambled through the very elegant Society Hill.

The weird, the wonderful and the truly magical

As we wandered, we chanced on the fabulous Center for Art in Wood, as well as a weird and wonderful exhibition of pipes. This latter was somewhat outside our normal sphere of interest, but absolutely amazing glass work!

All the while, we were heading towards Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens.  These are indeed magical, both for the immersive visual experience and the sense of art as driver for community regeneration. Isaiah Zagar is a mosaic artist on a huge scale, reminiscent of Gaudi but drawing on many other influences, in particular Folk Art. Started in 1994, the Magic Gardens form a hub for the regeneration of the South Street area of Philadelphia; Zagar’s first mosaics in the area go back to the 1960s.

Full Moon, Isaiah Zagar
We even brought our own small piece of Zagar’s work home with us. He titled it ‘Full Moon’, but we also make an association to the Blue Moon. Those of you who know our history will remember that this has a very personal significance for us!

 

The perfect end to a perfect day, Little Fish was one of the best fish restaurants we’ve ever discovered!

The next few days were conference days. In the evenings, though, we made the most of the seasonal spirit with a trip to the Christmas market and to Macy’s Christmas light show.

Passion, democratization, accessibility and community

WCUS itself was a fascinating experience for someone who functions at the edge of the WordPress community. What stays with me is the depth of commitment to making WordPress accessible to all. In 2016 there were 115 WordCamps in 41 countries, with close to 90% of the costs (though not the travel) covered by sponsors.

WordPress is available in 50 languages and there is a strong push for internationalization and accessibility. All this exists in the context of a code-base  written by volunteers (Paul has ‘core commits’ in a number of WordPress releases).

The third day of the conference was ‘Contributor Day’.Hundreds of people gave a full day of their time to coding, bug fix, testing, review, documentation, translation and more. In five years, the WordPress market share has grown from 13% to 27% of the web and this effort is what underpins it. What a fantastic model for social co-operation! 

While Paul focused on the more technical sessions and networking, I tapped into the wider content. Topics included ‘Version Control Your Life’, ‘Five Newsroom Tips for Better Website Content’, ‘Care and Feeding of Your Passion’, as well as a really helpful session on releasing a WordPress product.

‘Darth Vader wins over Yoda every time!’

Perhaps most pertinent to world events was a great talk on ‘The Dark Side of Democratization’. It seems that content that elicits emotional response is what goes viral, particularly if it arouses anger (hence the headline quote!). Therefore we all need to cultivate an ability to evaluate both our emotional response to content and the ‘facts’ in a post-truth world. An interesting suggestion was the importance of monitoring ‘news’ from sources that reflect the people who don’t think like you, engaging with understanding and tolerance, not judgement.

You can find’ the full 40 min session at https://dennis.blog/democratization/,  together with a great set of resource links including fact checkers.

Partying with dinosaurs

Partying with dinosaurs at the Academy of Natural Sciences

The ‘corridor stream’ is always a key element of any WordCamp and the after-party is a fun extension of this. In this case, we partied with dinosaurs at the Academy of Natural Sciences, making some useful contacts while were were about it!

A Sunday stroll

While Paul was delving into core code, I made a solo Philly foray. The Barnes Foundation, established by Albert C. Barnes in 1922 to “promote the advancement of education and the appreciation of the fine arts and horticulture”, houses a wonderful collection displayed in a quite unique style. The Museum of Art would definitely have been overload, though I did stand on the famous steps. Instead, I wandered on up the Benjamin Franklin Parkway behind the museum to the elegant Lemon Hill Mansion, all decked out for Christmas and picturesque Boathouse Row, enjoying the mild December sunshine.

Google Album – Philadelphia 2016 (more photos!)

Sunset over Cayo Coco

Rewind – Travel in 2016 (1); Cuba in Springtime

Travel wasn’t top of our list in 2016. With the move to rural life there was both too much to do and too much uncertainty about timing really to plan a proper ‘vacation’. Indeed, our summer holiday was, very intentionally, ‘cottage time’ in our new home.

Back at the start of the year, though, I saw a certain tiredness in Paul and, recognizing the long-haul ahead, took the unusual step for us of planning a week away with a focus on doing very little.

Escape into a Cuban Spring

Sugar cane and rum (fresh Pina Colada is a whole different experience!); scuba-diving blessed by the appearance of dolphins  for Paul while I snorkeled the reef; lots of much needed doing nothing round the pool, interspersed with dance classes, tai-chi and water volleyball; a little exploring with glimpses of plantations, mangroves, a crocodile farm and the decaying colonial grandeur of Ciego De Avila and Moron; and, always, the rhythms – rumba, salsa, cha-cha . . .

Honestly, I’m not sure whether or not we will go back to Cuba. There is genuinely a great sense of welcome, even in a somewhat anodyne resort area. But there is also a feeling of smoke and mirrors; things are not entirely what they seem, a lot of the time you see what you are supposed to see, and there are aspects of the Cuban regime and culture that I find difficult and unsettling. We are not very good at ‘resorts’, and, though ours was very good of its kind, that may have influenced my perceptions. Maybe if we go back to ‘travel’, really to see the country rather than laze . . . but I feel there may be other places that call to me more strongly.

Google Photo Album – Cuba