Needless to say, our bodies are still on UK time, so 5am (10am) was about the latest we could manage to sleep, though we did ‘laze’ till 6! A quick shower, coffee, croissants and fresh raspberries zinging with flavour, then off down the road to the beach to catch the dawn at 7.34 am – magic!
The Starship Enterprise?
“Your pilot on this Air Transat flight today is Captain Picard. . . “
We had a great flight in comfortable leather seats, flying club class (only an £80 premium each for more than twice the luggage allowance, as well as all the perks!). Champagne, great food and snacks (the maple sugar fudge hit the spot) and my first taste of Canadian Ice Wine, with really comfortable leather seats and the friendliest service.
As when we visited in June, we flew into bright sunshine – the weather at present is glorious if coldish, with a warm spell anticipated in which to enjoy the fall colours. Paul, our realtor, met us at the airport and brought us to our temporary home (see later entries).
So we are now safely on Canadian soil!
Accommodating the Soul B&B, Beach, Toronto
With so much to do and see, there has not been time to write about either of the excellent B&B’s we stayed in!
Arriving at Accommodating the Soul felt like coming home! We had dragged our luggage about 2.5K from the subway station (we could have got a bus, but felt like walking and were keen to take our first opportunity to explore!) on Toronto’s hottest day of the year. It was bliss just to sit on the porch as we waited for our hosts, Steven and Paul to arrive, soaking up the extraordinary sense of peace of this leafy city neighbourhood.
We could not have asked for a better home from home and Steven treated us to an excellent breakfast each morning; fresh fruit salad, perhaps followed by frittata bursting with fresh flavours or delicate pear pancakes and maple syrup, not to mention the handmade Italian sausages – and plenty of coffee!
We stayed in the Blue Room, not huge but more than adequate to our needs. This room shares a bathroom with the Yellow Room (there is also one ensuite room). The house was built in 1911 and has been sympathetically modernised and furnished, with a happy mix of old and new, including Steven’s lovely stained glass work. Situated on Waverly Road, just yards from Queen Street (rich in restaurants, cafes and quirky shops), the location provided the perfect blend of access to downtown and relaxing retreat near the beach.
Above all, both Steven and Paul were superb hosts, mines of information and wonderfully supportive of our fact finding. Paul is a Realtor (similar to but much more than an Estate Agent) and put together a brilliant house-buyers’ information pack for us, as well as taking us to see a number of properties that illustrated possible neighbourhoods and options.
One reason we regularly choose to stay in B&Bs is that, so often, we come away feeling that we have made new friends; this was certainly on of those occasions.
Avalon Clearview B&B
Although it looks out over Devil’s Glen, Avalon Clearview is not presumptuous in its allusion to the isle of the blessed. This is a magical place in an enchanted setting!
Arriving at the back of the house, there is not much to see and it is easy to overshoot. But looking out across the Niagara Escarpment, a World Biosphere Reserve, my spirit soared. Later, I wandered the grounds and woods beyond with a child’s delight, utterly present.
It isn’t hard to see how this glorious environment nourishes Steve’s work – once again, our host is a stained glass artist! Huge panelled internal doors re-dress the summer trees through which we stroll in their autumn raiment. Vibrant colours and natural forms spill throughout this lovely and very comfortable home.
Knowing we would arrive late afternoon, we had taken up the option of a home-cooked dinner. Elaine is an enthusiastic and excellent cook and were honoured to share our meal with both our hosts – once again, we immediately felt as if we were visiting friends and took great pleasure in their company. Breakfasts lived up to our by now high expectations, with particularly amazing fruit starters including Watermelon Benedict, (a base of home-made granola, watermelon, kiwi fruit & berries topped off with lemon yoghurt).
(You can see more photos in our Sightseeing Gallery!)
Toronto Highlights
By the end of our stay, I was beginning to be frustrated by the sense of ‘skimming’ – we never had enough time really to get to see anywhere very fully. But, on the plus side, this means there are so many places we are looking forward to exploring and experiencing more deeply when we return to Toronto to live.
Highlights included:
- The Beach – already mentioned in earlier posts. We loved the leafy streets, the ‘buzz’ of Queen St. and the laid-back feel of the Boardwalk and shore. This remains top of our list of desirable neighbourhoods. We didn’t find an outstanding restaurant, but then we didn’t really look as we were happy to eat well and inexpensively both in the Beach and further afield. Top choices included, Green Eggplant, ViVetha and Bow Thai.
- Greektown – some interesting shops, including a brilliant workers co-operative supermarket that had us drooling, as well as a host of Greek restaurants.
- The CN Tower – we have been to other cities with towers, but somehow the CN is special. It graces the skyline from so many different viewpoints and, as night falls, plays out a variety of light shows on the hour depending on the occasion. I even stepped out onto the glass floor – which for someone with a tendency to vertigo felt quite a big step!
- Old Toronto, the district slightly to the east of downtown which includes the Distillery District (high on the list for further exploration), the Flatiron Building (10 years older than New York’s) and the wonderful St Lawrence Market, foodie heaven and much more! Don’t let anyone tell you there is no back bacon in Canada – the Carousel Bakery is famous for its Peameal Bacon Sandwiches, the best bacon butty variant I have tasted, filled with lean, salty, peameal encrusted pork and egg. A further plus was the Hot House Cafe opposite the Flatiron Building, where we ate as part of the Summerlicious Food Festival – my Lobster Fettucine, with Cremini mushrooms, snow and spring peas and tarragon was perfectly balanced in flavour, colour and texture. We didn’t see the cakes until after we finished our meal, which means a return visit is essential!
- Toronto Shore – the Martin Goodman Trail runs for 219 miles along the shore of Lake Ontario, with Toronto at its heart. This is very appealing to a cyclist who is less than proficient and terrified of cars, who also quite fancies getting back on roller skates (or probably blades, these days)! The Boardwalk in the Beach runs along part of this trail, as does the whole downtown harbourfront area, not to mention Ontario Place.
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Just back from the shore, walking west from the harbourfront, is the tranquil oasis that is the Toronto Music Garden. I look forward so much to taking in the free concerts held on Sunday afternoons and sunny evenings through the summer, though I’m sure I will also seek out its peace at other times.
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A brief exploration of the Harbourfront Centre on our last day confirmed that we will be back – full of interesting exhibitions and performance space! And in the winter, we can skate outside looking out across Lake Ontario.
This is already a long post and I seem to have missed out so many things . . . We do have one concern about living in Toronto; there will still be only 24 hours in the day!